queensland : wooroonooran national park, babinda, the boulders

The drive from Cairns to Babinda is gorgeous - through the sugar cane fields with lush greenery. We had an overnight stop at the Babinda Rotary Park so we could get in to The Boulders early. 

The Boulders has about ten campsites and we were lucky that a couple were leaving their shady spot as we arrived. It's just a couple of hundred metres from the freecamp to the Boulders picnic area and swimming hole. The camp has a shower/toilet block (cold showers) and it's a really magic place but I can't imagine it staying a free camp forever. 

Legend has it that an aboriginal couple fell in love but the woman was betrothed to another man. She threw herself in to the waters where she lures young men in to their deaths.

It's easy to see how a young man could meet a grizzly end when the water is streaming through the Boulders. It's a visually captivating place but the council warning signs suggest that the currents and slippery rocks can be deadly. 

I was lucky enough to tack on to the back of an informal botanic tour of the area where I was introduced to some endemic species of the area. And we had a swim in the clear, crisp waters. 

The world's largest moth, the Hercules moth. This moth was on the grass before it awkwardly fluttered about. It looked on its last legs - they only live for two days. 

Our tree nymph 

We caught up with our friend Richard who camped overnight with us. 

My morning walk was 4km along the Goldfield Walking Trail with creek crossings, a few bridges across flowing waters and lush rainforest. We both would have loved to do this whole walk. 

This was as close as I got to a cassowary on my morning run. 

More roadside stalls with honesty boxes just outside of Babinda. These ones sold quail eggs and bananas. The quail eggs topped our Gado Gado dinner. The kids were fascinated by the tiny eggs. 

queensland: fitzroy island

After months and months living in the confines of the caravan with a family of five it's hardly surprising that everyone needs a little space. J was obliging and I took the opportunity to have TWO NIGHTS ON MY OWN on the stunning Fitzroy Island while he had the kids.

I took the ferry across one afternoon after finding a good last minute deal for accommodation. There's only one resort on the island but there's also camping facilities. I'd love to do that with the kids and J one day. Once I'd dumped my bags (with few clothes, swimmers and books!) I walked the coastal walk through the rainforest and up to the lighthouse. What a beautiful awe-inspiring view it was. As you come out of the rainforest the views out to the extensive sea remind you of your small significance on earth. I took a detour up to the highest point of the island - scrambling through enormous boulders. From the lookout I could see right out in to the ocean and back to the coastline. It was spectacular and I'd love to go back!

I hardly took any photos. I just wanted to BE.

Anyone who has been to Fitzroy would understand what an understated place it is. The last thing I wanted on a mini-break was to be crowded in a space and paying mega-bucks to stay on an island decimated by tourists. Fitzroy Island is eco-conscious. Sadly you can still the devastation to the coral off the island but I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a place so close to shore that hasn't been. 

Two days was enough time to read, snorkel, finish a meal uninterrupted and even get in the water for two SCUBA dives. I didn't see a lot but I was so pleased to dive again after over a year hiatus. 

Returning to the mainland was a delight as the kids were wrapped their arms around me. I did miss them all but I was so pleased to have some quiet time. 

queensland : cairns, holloway beach

HMAS Stuart happened to be in town in Cairns and J and the kids went aboard to visit our friend Kiwi! It was a great reunion as J and Kiwi had worked together for years in Sydney. The kids just love Kiwi!

A friend lives at Holloway Beach - just north of Cairns and we were happy to have a few nights in her drive way. We all loved being so close to the beach. Cathy did as best she could to convince us to stay long-term. Cairns has always had a question mark over the top of it - as to whether we could live there but we were sweating like crazy before 11am and we hadn't yet his the build-up. As much as I liked the big town/small city feel I just don't think we could have stayed. 

queensland: cairns, kuranda

J lived in Cairns years ago during his first years in the navy. The hotel where he lived for the year is still there, looking weathered. He was excited about showing us around.

We stayed with some dear friends - whom we met at mothers group when our eldest boys were babies. It was so fun for us to hang out with the adults and listen to the kids and their elaborate games - like they'd never been apart. They'd also just welcomed the most gentle boxer dog in to their family and we enjoyed getting to know him too.

We also managed to catch up with a few other friends too and we had babysitters (thanks Lisa) so we had another night out! Was that 2 nights in 11 months?

Cairns was a social time with two dinners out with friends and lots of catching up with friends. It was good fun!

When their boy left for school it was the first time we'd heard B eager to go back to school. 

From Cairns we had a day trip to Kuranda and Din Din, Barron Falls. The walk from the carpark through the forest was beautiful - and suitable for kids. 

Apparently Kuranda used to be a lot less touristy but we enjoyed a stroll through the markets all the same. We enjoyed our visit to the Butterfly Sanctuary. It was pretty special seeing the butterfly nursery and the butterfly larvae in various stages - each a day older. B had a particularly friendly butterfly land on his head and stay on even while he danced. Our boy, who is obsessed with animals, was thrilled. It wasn't long before his sister had a turn.  

queensland: cape tribulation, daintree

Cape Tribulation is one of those must-see places in the Daintree. I was instantly reminded of Jeannie Baker's Where the Forest Meets the Sea, a book I received from my mum for a birthday and one I have loved dearly since. 

We'd decided early on that this wasn't going to be our turn to do Cape York so Cape Trib was as far north as we travelled from our camp at Wonga Beach. The car ferry was a novelty and from there we drove through the tropical rainforest.

People living up there - not far from Cairns - depend on nature to provide water and power. 

We took a picnic and ate under the huge figs on the beach at Cape Trib and had a game of cricket. Despite the warning signs the kids splashed in the shallows while J kept a lookout for saltwater crocs. 

P was reminiscent in the sand - drawing our old house. 

Where the Forest Meets the Sea. 

And the little one fell asleep after swimming and crawling in the sand. Luckily he has the best big brother. 

The trip back to Wonga Beach included a stop in at the Floraville Ice Creamery which has a huge range of organic flavours including sweet potato & cinnamon and mango & lime. 

queensland: wonga beach, mossman gorge

We got lucky with the Piccadilly Caravan Park on Wonga Beach. The unpowered sites were on lush green grass as close to the beach as you can get. The kids practised riding without training wheels on the grass but we all crept under the shade in the humid afternoons. 

It was the first time most of us remember hearing the haunting screams of the curlew in the night. A couple of parents and little chicks made the caravan park home. 

Mossman Gorge is an easy half day trip from Wonga. We took our swimmers and clambered over the huge boulders and in to the cold water which was welcome relief from the humidity. The gorge is now accessible by bus and the walk is raised through the rainforest canopy. 

Sunrise at Wonga Beach

Fathers Day was celebrated at Eonga Beach. The kids planned the breakfast for J and we visited the farmers markets at Mossman to buy the freshest fruit and homemade vanilla ice cream (with locally grown vanilla beans) for pancakes.

To top off a great few days J kayaked out to Snapper Island - 6km from Wonga Beach - and camped overnight on the beach. The highlight was drinking a Mount Uncle single malt whisky by firelight under the setting sun looking out to the Daintree. 

queensland : mareeba, atherton, tablelands

In the nine months we'd been travelling we'd not heard such enthusiasm from the back seat as when we drove the windy road in to the Tablelands from Undara.

"Can we LIVE here?" 

"We love it!" 

It was the first time any of us had seen such lush greenery in a very long time. We opened the vent in the car and breathed in fresh, clean, damp air. 

Mareeba, famous for its pineapples and we bought a few sweet, juicy ones for $2.50 a piece. B was also completing a study on the production of peanut butter which tied in nicely with a visit to The Peanut Place. 

The Rocky Creek Memorial Park free camp was a good place to set up for a couple of nights while we visited Atherton and Mareeba. Overnight visitors are expected to leave a donation. 

A serious restock of our fridge was needed and for the first time in many months we could buy fresh, fresh veggies and fruit. The Termite Fruit and Veg shop was our first port of call but even the op shop in town sold bananas! We picked up half a kilo of the most delicious dried mango for $25. Though a big outlay it proves to be vital to have good snacks in the car save the children simply "die of hunger!"

As well as the fridge the liquor cabinet was looking dry so we took the excuse to buy locally distiller scotch and gin from Mount Uncle Distillery. These guys are producing award-winning spirits. The gin is packed full of Australian botanicals and to drink it with tonic water is to defeat the purpose of the delicate flavours. I'm drinking mine with lime juice and soda. Not right now, of course. I'll wait until 5pm!

Rifle Creek free camp is just outside of Mount Molloy on the road from Mareeba to Wonga Beach. We made a planned reverse trip the morning after we stayed - to Kah Veh Cafe and Fine Foods in Mount Molloy. Kah Veh brews a mean coffee. They make tasty raw treats and sell a range of locally produced fruit and veggies.