queensland: boodjamulla national park, riversleigh fossil site

Boodjamulla is the largest national park in Queensland. It's a remote spot not far from the Northern Territory border and can be accessed by a number of rugged and rough roads including the Savannah Way. We decided to take the sealed road heading north from Cloncurry, past Burke and Wills Roadhouse. 

From Corella Dam we travelled as far a freecamp listed in Camps 8, Firey Creek. Unfortunately we were the only ones parked by the side of this remote road but we found a spot right in by the dry creek bed. The kids played elaborate games with sticks and rocks and dirt before we ate dinner and fell in to bed. 

At some point in the evening J and I heard a truck stop not far from us and my mind suddenly went in to overdrive, thinking the worst. We had the genny running but kicked that off and turned the lights off too. It was a good twenty minutes before the truck took off. In retrospect it was silly to worry but it is such a remote part of the world that you just wouldn't want trouble anywhere. 

From Firey Creek it was an easy run to Gregory Downs. There are varying reports about the condition of the road in to Boodjamulla but we found it pretty good considering much of it was corrugated dirt. We couldn't get in to the national park so we booked three nights at Adele's Grove before deciding to stay four. From Adele's Grove it's a short drive to the gorges and walks in the National Park, and Riversleigh Fossil Site. The Grove is also a beautiful place to stay. We had a camp right next to the water hole - with rope swing and pontoon for the kids and big kids. 

We met another really lovely family from the Yarra Valley and we were all sad when they had to leave the following day. But we made the most of our time together. The kids played good fairies and bad fairies with long fighting sticks while we sat back and shared food stories over beer. Once the kids were down we tried a new dessert which they'd seen a French couple make. We wrapped banana with pieces of chocolate and marshmallows in al foil and cooked them on the coals of the fire. Delicious - and totally naughty! See you sometime the Yarra Smiths!

J and B went out to Riversleigh one morning - the largest fossil site of mammals in the world. This crocodile fossil has been dated as being 20 million years old. 

The fossil of a giant bird's leg bone aside fossilised rocks which would have been contained in its gut for digestion. 

The following morning J was up and gone early taking his boat up the gorgeous gorges in the national park. About eight years ago J was deliberating over buying the Valley sea kayak when I finally said that if he didn't go and buy one for himself then I'd go and buy him one. His boat has taken him so many places and given him freedom (& even taken him to work a coupe, of times a week) and I don't think he's ever regretted the purchase. There was no way that the boat was going in storage when we headed off on our trip around Australia. J had to carry his kayak through sections and was lucky to ride the rapids in a part of the gorge at Boodjamulla. (videos are on Instagram and Facebook). 

The following day hit 36°c and it felt hot but not hot, hot. We've acclimatised. We took the kids to the rock art site out at Boodjamulla National Park. There are a number of short walks there but we chose the Wild Dog walk which was best for the kids. It was anticlimactic when we arrived at the Cascades to find them full of algae. We promptly returned, hot and tired to the water hole by the canoes. That water was welcome relief!

northern territory: kakadu, gagadju, animal tracks,

It seems like a lifetime ago but about 18 months ago we were sitting a fancy Christmas dinner in Sydney with a bunch of Js colleagues. We were discussing our plans to do the big lap of Australia when one colleague insisted we do Patsy's tour in Kakadu. "If you are a foodie," he'd said, "you'll love it." 

I did a bit of research and a few weeks ago I found the notes of made for the Animal Tracks tour which leaves from Cooinda Lodge where we were staying with my parents. 

My parents were happy to mind the big kids while J and I headed out for the evening. I don't want to spoil the surprise for anyone who might take this tour but it really was a great experience. 

Attendees collected seasonal produce - fresh water mussels, bush carrots and what was left of water chestnuts at the end of a dry dry season. 

Preparing the magpie goose. Pluck, singe feathers, gut, portion, cook, eat. 

Patsy taught us some bush medicine and then her and our host Mark cooked our dinner the traditional way - on coals in a paperbark oven. We ate buffalo, magpie goose and barramundi on the edges of wetlands where thousands, some say millions, of magpie geese were nesting. 

It wasn't long before the loveable whistling kites came in for their share.  Back in the bus two dingos could be seen circling what was left of our feed.  

Thanks for the tip Paul. This was a really enjoyable your. 

victoria: torquay farmer's market

Another bit of serendipity lead us to Torquay. 

I'd remembered that Mamacino (food blogger extraordinare) had a stall at Torquay Farmer's Markets (which run every Saturday) so I planned around the markets. It suited us because we also needed to stock up on fresh fruit and veg, snacks for the car and a few frozen meals for when we arrive at a site in the afternoon. 

Mamacino has stopped her weekly stall but not her enthusiasm for good food and local produce so we met at the market anyway. 

With barely two dozen (lots of organic) stalls this little market is a gem! I had so much fun chatting with local farmers. And met Sarah who's running Eat Local Month in the area. They have so many fun things coming up in April so if you're in the area, look them up!

I also managed to pick up some great stuff including coriander, parsley, basil (huge branch) - all $2, the sweetest strawberries, dried bananas, hamburgers, homemade pies & pastries for the freezer, goats cheese, fresh bread, lamb shanks and lamb mince. I grabbed a big bag of apples for $5. We can't get enough after Tassie. 

Yesterday I transformed the mince, using my $2/kg tomatoes into a few pies - think moussaka/kafta filling topped with mashed potato. These will be easy to reheat and serve with salad or veggies. 

I couldn't resist these vego rice paper rolls with seaweed from the Tastes of Tibet stand. If you like this type of food you'd love these. Oh man. Smothered in house made chilli sauce. I'm still dreaming of them. She does dumplings too. 

And then I met Annette. She whips up some tasty treats for the markets. Our kids couldn't be dragged away from the samples. I don't blame them. Check out her Afghans! J and I sneaked a couple of Annette's finest homemade Monte Carlo's for the next leg of the trip. I'll be dreaming of those buttery, jammy delights for some time yet. 

It is so good to see the community getting behind local farmer's markets. I'm much happier knowing that our money went to farmers thriving to provide healthier food with safer farming practices for the long-term good of the environment. I'm pleased that our cash supports someone like Annette who bakes like a mad thing & gets to the markets early for the love of it. 

Our money was so well spent and the bottom line is that I'm pleased our $150 didn't go to either of the big two supermarkets that dominate the market. 

tasmania: launceston

We were reluctant to head back in to town after our stay at Bay of Fires but the time came to refill the water tanks (2 x 95 litres) and find a dump point. I'd never paid attention to dump point signs until this trip! 

J planned a morning walk from town to Cataract Gorge. Naturally I planned a visit to the providore enroute to stock up on local ham, cheese & fresh Manu bread. Throw in a few of those Lucaston apples (love the IGAs in this state) and you have yourself a picnic! 

The Mill Providore is a stones throw from Kings Bridge in Launceston (& I dare you to walk out empty handed) where you can park and begin the 15 minute walk to the Gorge. If it's hot take swimmers as there's a pool. The chairlift can take you across or you can rock hop or take the path along to the suspended bridge. It's an easy walk for kids or those who aren't keen on an arduous outing. In other words, you won't burn off the cheese you've just eaten! 

As it's close to town we stayed at Old Mac's Farm which offers unpowered sites (with water) along the banks of trout ponds for $10/n. J paid $20 extra to fish from the ponds. This was the scene just moments before he hooked a fish.... 

And dramatically tackled it in the reeds when it flipped off the hook! He wasn't going to let it get away!! 

I'd read good things about the food in Launceston so we made the most of the two days we had. 

Stillwater is a posh cafe downstairs from the Mill Providore. We were squeezed in but couldn't entirely relax despite our children being well behaved. The granola was INCREDIBLE but it might be a nicer place to eat with friends without children! 

With so much great produce in Tassie it's hard to go a day without being inspired to cook. I made Anni's walnut, apple & spice biscuits with Lucaston Apples, Coaldale Walnuts & added some Diemen Native Pepperberry for a bit of bite!

http://missmayblossom.blogspot.com.au/2014/03/anni-walnut-apple-biscuits.html?m=1

I didn't have the Thermomix going so I melted the butter on the stove and added the rest of the ingredients to the saucepan (off the heat). 

I sometimes wish we lived in a house and didn't have a weight limit. The Mill Store supplies Tassie with freshly milled flours & in large quantities!

A visit to Alps and Amici was the last thing on my list for Launceston. I went there for coffee beans, completely forgot, and came back with more Manu Bread, Bok's Bacon, the sweetest corn, sweet potato, pears & Tassie snow peas for $6/kg! And two double-shot flat whites. These were some of the best coffees we've had in Tassie. And there were so many more temptations in-store but we just couldn't squeeze it all in! 

The Glenbarry Bush Maze is a short 45 minute drive from Launceston. It was a natural place for us to stop for lunch on the way to Narantapu National Park. The kids loved the maze and the giant games & puzzles set out within the grounds. You can enjoy a coffee while the kids play. 

tasmania: woodbridge

We're staying in a friends house (with walls and a door and real rooms!!!) for the next few days and as a thank you we're planning a dinner with local ingredients from the farms throughout the Huon Valley. These native pepper berries & bush tomato are from Chris at Diemen Pepper. The processing unit smelled incredible as they've just finished drying the berries! 

The food story behind Tasmanian Fruit Leathers is that Jen decided her kids needed a healthy alternative to the processed version you'd find in a supermarket. She sources all her fruit locally from the Huon Valley and they are available at the various farmers markets and online. Thanks for the visit Jen and the new favourite road trip snack!