northern territory: bitter springs to elliot, devil's pebbles

It was a very long day in the car, one of our longest from Bitter Springs to Elliot, a small town halfway between Darwin and Alice Springs. The Longreach Waterhole free camp, on a dirt road out of town, had the red tick in Camps 8 so we were eager to see how it measured up. Our friends, Fifty Toes Walkabout, had planned to stay overnight there too and we were pleased that there was space to pull up near them. This family are virtually our neighbours in Sydney and there we were by a remote billabong in NT, catching up.

There were loads of sites along the water. A grassy outlook (not dusty) is always a preferable floor at the entrance to a van too. 

Longreach Waterhole was home to many bird species including terns, pelicans, kites. It was teaming with wildlife! 

We got dinner together as the kids played and the two families sat down together to share experiences we'd had since leaving Sydney. We slept well that night after a fire and chat once the kids were in bed. The stars were endless and the quiet such a comfort. It reminded us of nights on the family farm near Bega. 

Elliot to Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles)

Devil's Pebbles or Kunjarra is a beautiful free camp just south of Three Ways off the Stuart Highway. While we aren't snobby about free camps it is so wonderful to stay in an impressive one. 

Devil's Pebbles, I imagine, are the smaller version of the Marbles. There's a short loop walk through the pebbles and visitors are asked to remain on the path so as to avoid trampling this sacred site.

northern territory: katherine to bitter springs, mataranka

We popped in to the wonderful Finch Cafe before leaving the town of Katherine. Locals must be pleased to have a place that serves great coffee, decent food and a well-equipped kids playroom!

Mataranka is a popular place and it's easy to see why. It's accessible and not a bad dip - lolling about on a noodle. The kids loved diving for rocks in the bottom of the pool (much to the dismay of a grumpy grey). 

Bitter Springs is definitely our preferred swimming option though. We camped at the campground nearby which meant we could get down to the warm water nice and early before it had been stirred up. I was so pleased that J suggested that I throw on the snorkel. The visibility was incredible and while there wasn't much to see (turtles, weed, plants) seeing the underwater world just adds to the experience. 

Little A had his first real swim in warm water. He wore every flotation device invented as he floated with us down the springs which stretch about a hundred metres. He loved it and it was great to have him come along for the ride. 

The big kids threw on their goggles and snorkels and spent most of the swim duck diving and exploring in the clear water.