NW tasmania: waratah

This is Waratah, a tiny town somewhere off the main road between Burnie and Cradle Mountain, Tasmania. 

We took the scenic route via Hellyer Gorge though we'll have to visit the gorge on a day trip as Baby A was sleeping and we had to keep moving. It was a beautiful stretch of road through some alpine-looking country, rainforest, tall eucalyptus plantations and farms. It was windy, though. For those who've traveled Cooma to Bega think Brown Mountain for a few extra kilometres. 

The town was born on a tin mine and hosts a waterfall in the middle of town. Our powered site is $25 which includes showers (oh yes after three days without one!) and free access to washing machine & dryer. There's no big supermarket or fuel and you need to be able to collect your grey water so come prepared. If you're lucky you might spot a platypus in the creek by the caravan park. 

This morning, before breakfast, we had the privilege of sighting a platypus eight times in the lake. At times the animal was quite close and we got a good look at him. What a magical experience! 

NW tassie: boat harbour beach, stanley, the nut, waratah

We don't really have an itinerary but more a rough idea of how long we can spend in a place so we can get back to Devonport for our return to the mainland in a little over four weeks. Free, you may think, but with three children in tow this can be a little stressful. We can travel for two hours in the morning and up to three in the afternoon (though we'd rather not) if we coordinate driving with our baby's sleeps. He's been travelling so well and he barely cries but we turned him to forward facing today because he did get carsick yesterday. 

The older two were given our old phones and they've been listening to audiobooks - The Magic a Faraway Tree, The 13th Storey Treehouse, Roald Dahl, Paul Jennings and others. I'm pleased to now have some quiet time so J and I can talk in the car! As bad as that sounds we are a family of talkers (and questioners and explainers) and with the 24/7 relentlessness of travel together we all need our quiet time!

It's an easy drive from Devonport to Boat Harbour Beach on Tassie's northwest coast. We arrived at about lunchtime when the tide was making its way in and the kids scrambled on the rocks & collected shells (which they put back later) while we unhitched & made plans for lunch. 

The afternoon sun was warm and deceiving because, what we did not know, was that the wind would soon pick up. This part of Tassie is notorious for the wind! For those of you who follow on Instagram you'll know that this spot is a freecamp for those travelers who contain grey and black water (campers are encouraged to stay elsewhere). It is a pretty spot. 

The Nut at Stanley, is an easy day trip from Boat Harbour Beach so we headed up the coast for, what happened to be my husband's birthday. 

B (our 6yo) was eager to walk up The Nut with J and Baby A in the backpack. 

I was asked to stand on a timber box and launch myself on to the chairlift as it came up behind us. The attendant put our 3yo daughter on beside me and it was only as we began creeping up the side of the mountain (which was once the core of a volcano) that I realised that I'd agreed to ride the *scary* chairlift rather than walk the 300 metres to the top. 

There was only one brave girl on that chairlift and it wasn't me! This girl is my hero. 

I've not experienced true vertigo before but it took hold on the chairlift and later when we approached the lookout my legs almost gave way and I felt like I'd be sick! It was a strange experience. 

The view of the coastline was quite spectacular and The Nut was a reminder of how ancient this earth is!

When I realised I'd have to be on the chairlift coming down with Baby A in the backpack it was worse. The view was incredible so I distracted myself with that! 

Fish for tea? 

Spirit of Tasmania

I'd like to begin this post with a letter: 

"Dear Tanya, 

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. 

When we booked our ticket for the SoT you politely insisted we pay a little extra and get ourselves a four berth cabin for the trip. I was reluctant to book this given the cost to take a caravan across but at $84 this was so worth the money. 

Our littlest was able to have uninterrupted day sleeps while our son completed his schoolwork on a lower deck. When we all started feeling a little sea sick we retreated to the cabin for some quiet time - reading books and telling funny stories. 

When our daughter vomited in her Dad's hair they could both shower and feel *refreshed*!

We'll be forever grateful that you suggested we have a cabin!"

What's a cruise without a game of hide n seek? 

It was a LOONG day but it went surprisingly well after an anxiety-provoking start. We left the caravan park at 624am and we're making good time until the queue to board the ferry (thanks to scrupulous security). We were in view of the ferry for the final 500 metres which took us an hour to drive! The baby was screaming, the parents were clock watching and then a cop pulled over a guy in front of us for going through a red light. It would have been easier if the big kids just kept asking "are we there yet?" But instead we were bombarded with complex questions about the traffic, the ferry ride & what we were doing (not much!) Argh! 

We finally made it onboard and we're lucky that our deck was the first to disembark in Devonport ten hours later. 

B declared "this is kind of the BEST day of my life." I suspect he was referring to the Twisties he was bought (& had never had before) and not the seasickness! 

Moments after disembarking. 

P: Where's the Tasmanian devil? 

B: (emphatically) They live in the jungle.  

Daddy: Well, not really the jungle. They live in the bush. 

P: Can we go to the bush where the Tasmanian devil is because I really want to see a Tasmanian devil.

Buchan Caves Reserve

Buchan has been our favourite spot thus  far. Nestled between the hills the Buchan Caves Reserve is simply beautiful. It was hard to believe that the CP was full two days before we arrived. We shared the park with three other families though you wouldn't have known it. We were spread throughout the grounds and it was quiet aside from the whispering of wind in the branches high above us. 

The campground is a short walk to the caves & you can arrange a tour with the site office. This was unlike anything our children had experienced and they were intrigued. We challenged them to consider what it would have been like to be Frank Moon & discovering these caves over 100 years prior. We also discussed the double-edged sword which is opening them to the public, education and conservation. I know we'll be having so many more conversations on this topic. 

The most queried angle from B was along the lines of "why can't we see the REST of the caves - the Federal (open only for special tours) and the Duke's Caves (not open to public)?" 

Danny was the ranger on duty at Buchan. He was informative, approachable & inclusive of the children. 

It's rumored there are 300 or more caves on private properties nearby. 

The cost for our caravan for two nights was about $108 which isn't cheap but worth it. The cost for cave tours isn't cheap either but there are family packages & you could choose to only visit one. 

We could have spent another few days in Buchan. Even with the rain it was gorgeous & there are so many places out of town we would have liked to explore. 

Melbourne was calling! We had our first caravan service booked in which includes the fixing of the fridge (it's never quite worked properly), a leaky window & a loose pantry door that flings open when we drive. 

The kids are expected to help out more than they've done at home. They do dishes, washing, help prepare meals & set up the van when we arrive at a destination. They don't complain either... yet!

Don't be fooled. This spring waspositively  FREEZING not that I know! I had to hold the baby but I'm going on the fact that the kids jumped in and immediately crawled on to Joels head! 

Buchan Caves Reserve. Our favourite spot thus far.