northern territory: kunjarra to avon downs to camooweal to mount isa

Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles) was a beautiful place to stay the night. The family did the loop walk again in the morning (in the opposite direction) through the grass and boulders. 

 

Devil's Pebbles to Avon Downs 

From the Pebbles we used the dump point, water and fuel stop at Tennant Creek to restock the essentials before heading east at Three Ways to the Avon Downs Police Station free camp. 

As we drove across the Northern Territory border in to Queensland J remarked that this is the last state to visit. Whilst we will be returning to our home state of New South Wales in a few months, Queensland is the final state to visit on our trip around Australia. It is a milestone and a pretty big one. We're not ready to head home back to work. The kids could do with their regular school friends though as we've only seen a few travelling families briefly in the past few weeks. We are looking forward to getting settled again. There's something about a routine which is a comfort but there is one thing for sure - we are going to miss life on the road. 

I know J thought I'd never say that. There have been times when I've needed my own space and quiet but we've seen incredible things, forged stronger bonds as a family and made some wonderful friends.  

We met some fun people at Avon Downs. The couple are from Sydney and have grown up children and have purchased their first off-roader. We enjoyed a drink under the stars while discussing the complex and saddening issues that face Indigenous Australians. 

Avon Downs to Camooweal 

From Avon Downs we had a short drive to Georgina River just outside of the little town of Camooweal. What a delight this was. The billabong is drying now so the mass of pelicans fish in formation around the clock. It's a sight! 

There was playing in the mud... 

... whittling.... 

... the boys hanging... 

and Mr Whippy! I know, random! 

Brolgas were elegantly fishing along the bank too. J heard them courting overnight. Black and whistling kites flew overhead. The birdlife was remarkable. 

Brolgas at dawn. 

Camooweal to World War II Free Camp

I'll remember this day forever - not because of the late start - schoolwork, topping up water, baby's sleep. I won't remember it, necessarily, for the free camp we've pulled into and where the kids played cricket while I cooked bread, a cake and dinner. I'll remember this day for the moments on the Barkly Highway that came and went in a flash. Those were the moments that a road train was careering towards us on our side of the road as he overtook a campervan. 

I was prattling on about some review if read about a cafe in Mount Isa that we might visit while in town when I noticed (moments later than J) that the truck was in our lane. J calmly braked a bit while I held on to the glove box rail in front of me. I must say that a very rude word was repeated over and over from my mouth as I watched the truck closing in. I was eyeing up the road's shoulder and guide posts, thinking we'd be heading that way shortly. Fortunately it wasn't a drop off the side like much of the road is. 

I kept swearing (quietly) and J kept calmly assessing the situation until the road train finally pulled in to his lane and left our hearts back where they belonged. The truckie kindly acknowledged what had occurred with an apologetic wave and I waved frantically and thankfully at the campervan behind him. 

For a long, long time I couldn't talk. My heart was thumping through my chest and I had to lean my head on the dash. 

My thoughts were with our three little kids in the back of the car who were unwittingly listening to their audiobooks (and babbling - the baby). 

In an instant, life can be changed forever. We've seen some stupid stuff on the roads. Within half an hour later a car overtook us on a blind corner and seconds later a road train appeared. Every day on the road is risky business. There are many close calls and I don't plan to have another one. 

I was so proud of J. His calm manner served us well today and he assessed the situation as it came. Leaving the road while towing a three and a half tonne caravan would not have been ideal and we arrived safely at our destination, the WWII free camp just west of Mount Isa. 

western australia: exmouth to bullara station

Getting away in the mornings requires everyone to 'pitch in.' In other words the kids have to limit their craft, J & I work flat-out packing away each thing in the van (other caravanners and those with camping trailers know how it is!) and Baby A has to amuse himself which usually mean she crawls around the caravan inspecting everything. 

It seems Baby A enjoyed the week at Osprey Bay, Cape Range National Park too. 

We left Osprey Bay, dropped in at Exmouth to refuel, do laundry, fill the fridge & the water tanks. We pulled in for a night at Bullara Station which has a good set-up. There are showers, toilets and washing machines. I should have waited to do the washing there. 

Happy Hour, around the fire pit, is at 5 o'clock and camp host, John, cooks a damper to share. Coincidentally John is far from his home near Goolwa, South Australia, a stones throw from the Seaview Grove Olive Oil olive grove where we stayed with Andrew and Emily on our way through! 

If you're lucky you might stay on a night when John cooks a sourdough damper from his two year old starter!

John was kind enough to use the coals to hear the bbq plate so we could cook the hamburgers I bought from the Exmouth Butchery. We stocked up with meat from these guys and it's been very good. I served these on fresh rolls with fresh beetroot, carrot, lettuce, homemade relish and my sauerkraut!

western australia : kalbarri, natures window

It's hard to get the balance right when you're on the road with the three kids. We need to factor in the needs of everyone and sleep for the baby is generally a priority. Baby A does so well transitioning from his car seat and the pram but on days when we don't have to go anywhere I like for him to have his sleeps in the caravan. What this means, too, is that B gets a good solid morning of schoolwork completed.

On one such morning (while A slept and B did schoolwork) I took P to the camp kitchen at Murchison House Station and we made fresh rice paper rolls with carrot, cucumber, lettuce, mint, spring onions and a soya chilli dressing. 

This meant that we couldn't leave until lunch time for the the second walk we wanted to do near Kalbarrii - Natures Window. We ate our rice paper rolls under a shelter in the car park with an incredible view across the gorge and along with the gazillions of flies. They were dive bombing the dressing and it was so bad that even Baby A didn't bother pulling his fly net off because he was happier with it on!

Natures Window is a very short but picturesque walk but it was so hot on the day we did it. 

And when we arrived a Malaysian couple, who live in Perth, were having their pre-wedding shots. They looked amazing. The juxtaposition of the glamorous wedding shots against the back drop of the dusty and somewhat isolated outback with the swarms of flies wasn't lost on us. 

victoria: port fairy

We've fallen in love with the quaint town of Port Fairy. As her name suggests she's perched on the water. Sailing boats line her shores and cows graze in paddocks a few blocks away. 

We spent a while deciding where we'd stay. There's a caravan park positioned nicely behind the dunes on the southern side of town (which has some sites that would be protected from southerlies) but we finally decided to stay at the Big 4. We think that it's important that the kids get time in these places socialising with other kids too. Plus there's a jumping pillow, mini golf, three playgrounds, a movie room, a games room and an indoor heated pool. The kids can ride their bikes within the park too. 

J treated me with some "me time" so i rode in to town - just as hundreds of road cyclists finished the final leg of a tour of Victoria. I felt like a bit of a fraud because it took me all of six minutes to cycle from the caravan park. 

A local gave me a tip for where to find coffee. As with some places it can depend on who is behind the machine but Slitti is known for producing consistently good coffee, not to mention homemade chocolates & raw/pales treats and tasty sandwiches. I treated myself to a particular good slice of chai cheesecake. 

The kids spent the morning making their way through the various activities at the CP but we jumped on the bikes to the little lighthouse on the point past the mutton bird colony. This is a pretty flat ride but a picturesque one. You can ride down the path by the water for a lot of the way.

It was magic weather for it. 

These two spotted some seagulls and they're signing "bird."

victoria: mount franklin reserve

There are some places that we visit that we'll never forget - Buchan (Vic), Boat Harbour Beach (Tas), Bay of Fires (Tas), Cradle Mountain (Tas) to name a few. 

Mount Franklin Reserve is another place to add to the list - a free camp - which we found in Camps 8. In paddocks, just out of Castlemaine, is an extinct volcano and within it is Mount Franklin Reserve. There are toilets but otherwise campers need to take home rubbish & have their own water. 

The sites are under towering pines and it's absolutely beautiful. The kids & J enjoyed a short walk around the top of the volcano and playing hide and seek in the forest. 

I'm sure there'd be times when this is very busy. 

tasmania: strahan to bradys lake via franklin river nature trail

The road from Queenstown, however diverse, is almost unbearably windy. The landscape has been heavily affected by mining and I heard one traveller describe it as beautiful. While we disagree entirely it is interesting to see the difference with the rainforests of the area.

A good supply of snacks (crackers, Tassie apples) and the iPods chockful of audiobooks has made car travel pretty good. We leave for the first leg when Baby A has his morning sleep (9:30) and sometimes stop before a campsite (depending on how far we've got to go) but by leaving early in the morning we can still travel for an hour or two after lunch if need be. 

After the windy, windy roads from Queenstown we were all pleased to escape from the car at the Franklin River Nature Trail. J & I stopped here when we drove around Tassie about ten years ago. The trail is a short walk through rainforest to the river and it's beautiful - a perfect lunch stop too!

The kids stripped off for a dip in the river. Baby A had his feet in the water - kicking & splashing - and he cried each time we took him out. 

It's not hard to understand the affection people have for this state & the environment. 

Our final stop before Bradys Lake was The Wall - just out of Derwent. Ten years ago, when we visited, The Wall was just two panels but there are almost one hundred metres of Tasmanian and Australian history carved in the Huon Pine. This is a must-see. 

tasmania: woodbridge

We're staying in a friends house (with walls and a door and real rooms!!!) for the next few days and as a thank you we're planning a dinner with local ingredients from the farms throughout the Huon Valley. These native pepper berries & bush tomato are from Chris at Diemen Pepper. The processing unit smelled incredible as they've just finished drying the berries! 

The food story behind Tasmanian Fruit Leathers is that Jen decided her kids needed a healthy alternative to the processed version you'd find in a supermarket. She sources all her fruit locally from the Huon Valley and they are available at the various farmers markets and online. Thanks for the visit Jen and the new favourite road trip snack!

tasmania: bradys lake

Bradys Lake is in Camps 8 and there are a few spots to pull in to for the night for those who are self-contained. 

Last night we sat by a fire with some lovely Tassie locals. Our son introduced us to them and our kids cooked marshmallows over the fire.

Bradys Lake is meant to be a great spot to catch brown & rainbow trout and Atlantic salmon. We were hoping J would bring one in on the kayak or B on the rod but it wasn't to be! 

What a morning! 

This was a stunning place to wake up. We were shrouded in fog but it cleared to reveal the mirror-like lake. 

NW tasmania: waratah

This is Waratah, a tiny town somewhere off the main road between Burnie and Cradle Mountain, Tasmania. 

We took the scenic route via Hellyer Gorge though we'll have to visit the gorge on a day trip as Baby A was sleeping and we had to keep moving. It was a beautiful stretch of road through some alpine-looking country, rainforest, tall eucalyptus plantations and farms. It was windy, though. For those who've traveled Cooma to Bega think Brown Mountain for a few extra kilometres. 

The town was born on a tin mine and hosts a waterfall in the middle of town. Our powered site is $25 which includes showers (oh yes after three days without one!) and free access to washing machine & dryer. There's no big supermarket or fuel and you need to be able to collect your grey water so come prepared. If you're lucky you might spot a platypus in the creek by the caravan park. 

This morning, before breakfast, we had the privilege of sighting a platypus eight times in the lake. At times the animal was quite close and we got a good look at him. What a magical experience! 

NW tassie: boat harbour beach, stanley, the nut, waratah

We don't really have an itinerary but more a rough idea of how long we can spend in a place so we can get back to Devonport for our return to the mainland in a little over four weeks. Free, you may think, but with three children in tow this can be a little stressful. We can travel for two hours in the morning and up to three in the afternoon (though we'd rather not) if we coordinate driving with our baby's sleeps. He's been travelling so well and he barely cries but we turned him to forward facing today because he did get carsick yesterday. 

The older two were given our old phones and they've been listening to audiobooks - The Magic a Faraway Tree, The 13th Storey Treehouse, Roald Dahl, Paul Jennings and others. I'm pleased to now have some quiet time so J and I can talk in the car! As bad as that sounds we are a family of talkers (and questioners and explainers) and with the 24/7 relentlessness of travel together we all need our quiet time!

It's an easy drive from Devonport to Boat Harbour Beach on Tassie's northwest coast. We arrived at about lunchtime when the tide was making its way in and the kids scrambled on the rocks & collected shells (which they put back later) while we unhitched & made plans for lunch. 

The afternoon sun was warm and deceiving because, what we did not know, was that the wind would soon pick up. This part of Tassie is notorious for the wind! For those of you who follow on Instagram you'll know that this spot is a freecamp for those travelers who contain grey and black water (campers are encouraged to stay elsewhere). It is a pretty spot. 

The Nut at Stanley, is an easy day trip from Boat Harbour Beach so we headed up the coast for, what happened to be my husband's birthday. 

B (our 6yo) was eager to walk up The Nut with J and Baby A in the backpack. 

I was asked to stand on a timber box and launch myself on to the chairlift as it came up behind us. The attendant put our 3yo daughter on beside me and it was only as we began creeping up the side of the mountain (which was once the core of a volcano) that I realised that I'd agreed to ride the *scary* chairlift rather than walk the 300 metres to the top. 

There was only one brave girl on that chairlift and it wasn't me! This girl is my hero. 

I've not experienced true vertigo before but it took hold on the chairlift and later when we approached the lookout my legs almost gave way and I felt like I'd be sick! It was a strange experience. 

The view of the coastline was quite spectacular and The Nut was a reminder of how ancient this earth is!

When I realised I'd have to be on the chairlift coming down with Baby A in the backpack it was worse. The view was incredible so I distracted myself with that! 

Fish for tea? 

Melbourne

Our visit in Melbourne ended up being a week-long stay. We'd booked the caravan in for the first service and wanted to see family before catching the Spirit of Tasmania across the Strait.

The team at Elite Caravans was so efficient and our early drop off meant we didn't have to wait long (enough time for cafe for brekky, schoolwork, playground & lunch). So often you hear of poor customer service after the sale but Elite got everything done. And we have a fridge! It ended being a minor ventilation issue. We were back at the CP for a swim. 

Baby A, at 7 months, is loving splashing and kicking in the water. We were hopeful the CP pools would allow the big kids to gain more confidence in the water. They've been having lessons since they were four & seven months old and we've even seen them improve in the few days in the water which is so pleasing. 

The kids loved the visit to Weribee Open Range Zoo. Initially it was disappointing as tickets were about $80 for the family. The heat meant many of the animals were taking shelter in the shade but we finished the visit with a safari. The safari included seeing hippos, giraffes, antelopes, rhinos, zebras and camels up close. It was brilliant and we became particular fond of Leroy the Rhino who sniffed at his dung and marked his territory with wee. Charming!

We had one of the best breakfasts ever at the Auction Rooms. I ordered a breakfast board which Baby A was happy to share. 

Ashley Gardens, whilst tucked in the 'interesting' neighborhood of Braybrook was a good place to stay. The manager accommodated our kayak and bikes while we went in to the city. Safeway is next door for groceries. The park itself was clean and there was enough for the kids to do - pool, games room with toys. I've also grown fond of a family bathroom with a bath! 

Buchan Caves Reserve

Buchan has been our favourite spot thus  far. Nestled between the hills the Buchan Caves Reserve is simply beautiful. It was hard to believe that the CP was full two days before we arrived. We shared the park with three other families though you wouldn't have known it. We were spread throughout the grounds and it was quiet aside from the whispering of wind in the branches high above us. 

The campground is a short walk to the caves & you can arrange a tour with the site office. This was unlike anything our children had experienced and they were intrigued. We challenged them to consider what it would have been like to be Frank Moon & discovering these caves over 100 years prior. We also discussed the double-edged sword which is opening them to the public, education and conservation. I know we'll be having so many more conversations on this topic. 

The most queried angle from B was along the lines of "why can't we see the REST of the caves - the Federal (open only for special tours) and the Duke's Caves (not open to public)?" 

Danny was the ranger on duty at Buchan. He was informative, approachable & inclusive of the children. 

It's rumored there are 300 or more caves on private properties nearby. 

The cost for our caravan for two nights was about $108 which isn't cheap but worth it. The cost for cave tours isn't cheap either but there are family packages & you could choose to only visit one. 

We could have spent another few days in Buchan. Even with the rain it was gorgeous & there are so many places out of town we would have liked to explore. 

Melbourne was calling! We had our first caravan service booked in which includes the fixing of the fridge (it's never quite worked properly), a leaky window & a loose pantry door that flings open when we drive. 

The kids are expected to help out more than they've done at home. They do dishes, washing, help prepare meals & set up the van when we arrive at a destination. They don't complain either... yet!

Don't be fooled. This spring waspositively  FREEZING not that I know! I had to hold the baby but I'm going on the fact that the kids jumped in and immediately crawled on to Joels head! 

Buchan Caves Reserve. Our favourite spot thus far.