northern territory: kunjarra to avon downs to camooweal to mount isa

Kunjarra (Devil's Pebbles) was a beautiful place to stay the night. The family did the loop walk again in the morning (in the opposite direction) through the grass and boulders. 

 

Devil's Pebbles to Avon Downs 

From the Pebbles we used the dump point, water and fuel stop at Tennant Creek to restock the essentials before heading east at Three Ways to the Avon Downs Police Station free camp. 

As we drove across the Northern Territory border in to Queensland J remarked that this is the last state to visit. Whilst we will be returning to our home state of New South Wales in a few months, Queensland is the final state to visit on our trip around Australia. It is a milestone and a pretty big one. We're not ready to head home back to work. The kids could do with their regular school friends though as we've only seen a few travelling families briefly in the past few weeks. We are looking forward to getting settled again. There's something about a routine which is a comfort but there is one thing for sure - we are going to miss life on the road. 

I know J thought I'd never say that. There have been times when I've needed my own space and quiet but we've seen incredible things, forged stronger bonds as a family and made some wonderful friends.  

We met some fun people at Avon Downs. The couple are from Sydney and have grown up children and have purchased their first off-roader. We enjoyed a drink under the stars while discussing the complex and saddening issues that face Indigenous Australians. 

Avon Downs to Camooweal 

From Avon Downs we had a short drive to Georgina River just outside of the little town of Camooweal. What a delight this was. The billabong is drying now so the mass of pelicans fish in formation around the clock. It's a sight! 

There was playing in the mud... 

... whittling.... 

... the boys hanging... 

and Mr Whippy! I know, random! 

Brolgas were elegantly fishing along the bank too. J heard them courting overnight. Black and whistling kites flew overhead. The birdlife was remarkable. 

Brolgas at dawn. 

Camooweal to World War II Free Camp

I'll remember this day forever - not because of the late start - schoolwork, topping up water, baby's sleep. I won't remember it, necessarily, for the free camp we've pulled into and where the kids played cricket while I cooked bread, a cake and dinner. I'll remember this day for the moments on the Barkly Highway that came and went in a flash. Those were the moments that a road train was careering towards us on our side of the road as he overtook a campervan. 

I was prattling on about some review if read about a cafe in Mount Isa that we might visit while in town when I noticed (moments later than J) that the truck was in our lane. J calmly braked a bit while I held on to the glove box rail in front of me. I must say that a very rude word was repeated over and over from my mouth as I watched the truck closing in. I was eyeing up the road's shoulder and guide posts, thinking we'd be heading that way shortly. Fortunately it wasn't a drop off the side like much of the road is. 

I kept swearing (quietly) and J kept calmly assessing the situation until the road train finally pulled in to his lane and left our hearts back where they belonged. The truckie kindly acknowledged what had occurred with an apologetic wave and I waved frantically and thankfully at the campervan behind him. 

For a long, long time I couldn't talk. My heart was thumping through my chest and I had to lean my head on the dash. 

My thoughts were with our three little kids in the back of the car who were unwittingly listening to their audiobooks (and babbling - the baby). 

In an instant, life can be changed forever. We've seen some stupid stuff on the roads. Within half an hour later a car overtook us on a blind corner and seconds later a road train appeared. Every day on the road is risky business. There are many close calls and I don't plan to have another one. 

I was so proud of J. His calm manner served us well today and he assessed the situation as it came. Leaving the road while towing a three and a half tonne caravan would not have been ideal and we arrived safely at our destination, the WWII free camp just west of Mount Isa. 

western australia, northern territory: lake argyle to litchfield national park

There are a few rest stops between Lake Argyle and Litchfield that aren't too rough. We did venture in to Mary River rest stop one afternoon only to be mightily disappointed wit the countless vans (over 100 camped in total) who were clearly set up for a stay longer than the 24 hour maximum. Sadly individuals had left their rubbish by the bins only to have it blown about the place by the wind. It's stories like these that will have people like them complaining when free camps are closed for good. A council somewhere has to pick up after these grubs. 

Late one afternoon we pulled in to the Mathison Rest Area just as a few grey nomad couples were stirring their camp oven stew. It looked and smelled amazing and they were really accomodating of our loud and tired family. I loved that these guys, who'd been on the road together for a couple of months, use their camp ovens each night and combine meals. 

I can't even remember what we ate for tea that night but we watched on in fascination (& envy) as they topped their stew with a damper mix (in scone sized drops) 22 minutes before it was due to come off the heat. When the lid came off each diner was treated to a hearty stew and a perfectly cooked scone to soak up the juices! Brilliant!!

I coined the meal "Quarantine Stew" as it can easily be made the night before you're due to pass through a quarantine checkpoint with whatever fresh veggies are remaining and would otherwise be confiscated. The name was quickly aquired by our new friends.

We got away from Katherine later than we had intended. We needed to restock but the springs in town were such a welcome relief from being confined to the car. 

As usual we planned our stop as we were pulling in and, again, it was late in the afternoon. We weren't the last to arrive at Bridge Creek Rest Area though and the kids soon made friends with some backpackers whom they shared a game of Connect 4 with after dinner. And the rumours are true - Lawrence the rooster is a friendly host. I'm sure he's still crowing for a mate.   

western australia : sandy cape

I can safely say that Sandy Cape Recreational Park has been added to our growing list of favourite camps. It's a free camp 12km north of Jurien Bay (and 8km west on a well maintained dirt road). I suspect the nearby sand mines are responsible for the upkeep of the road and there were a few of non off-road campers. There's a loo, dump point and bins. 

The cost to stay at Sandy Cape is $15/n per van regardless of the number of people staying which is an unusual but welcome way to charge campers. As a family of five we are frequently paying for our eldest two kids who are only four and six and whom don't use a lot of water or power. 

Regardless of cost the site is simply beautiful and we happened to snaffle the best site, Site 1 Shady Reatreat, right on the beach!

The kids could explode from the van in the mornings and head straight on to the beach. On the days when we had to knuckle down and get schoolwork done B could jump up for a break down on the water. In one such break he announced "I'm going on to the beach to fish. You can watch Mum but I know how to cast." 

There's a four night limit at Sandy Cape. Needless to say we would have stayed weeks. 

western australia : baxter rest stop to fraser range station

A quick game of cricket before hitting the road at Baxter rest stop (has a toilet and a dump point). 

It won't surprise you that the longest straight stretch of road in Australia - 146km - is on the Nullabor. At night you can see the lights of a road train approaching from kilometres away! There's plenty to look out for during the day - camels, cattle, kangaroos and huge wedge-tailed eagles. We were hopeful but didn't see a camel! 

south australia: limestone coast, coorong

We spent the night in a campsite on the beach at Wright's Beach just out of Robe. It cost $13 for the five of us for the night and has basic toilets. The beauty of this spot is that it is a stones throw from the beach which is reef for almost as far as the eye can see. 

It used to be a great spot for crays but the word from fishermen is that there aren't as many fish of crays due to the winds.

Another afternoon of driving and we made it to the Coorong - a wilderness area like nothing we've yet seen on this trip. The place is famous for the setting of Colin Thiele's Storm Boy in 1967.  

There are a few free camps in the area but we chose to camp at Parnca Point 2 which cost us $8 for the night. There are no facilities and I'd urge visitors to take their rubbish and grey water with them. Given that you're right on the water it would be shameful if grey water seeped in to the sanctuary. 

We spotted another four emus on the way in to Parnca - two on each side of the car which was great for the kids to see. 

We slept by the river with the sounds of the pounding ocean over the dunes a kilometre or so away. The night was clear and waters sparkly. 

Just a few J's down the Princes Highway  and there's a shed where you can buy the famous Coorong mullet ($25 for a big kilo & caught a day prior) or a rabbit ($10 skinned and frozen) if you fancy. 

You simply need to buzz the door bell and Shane, "a real bushy," flies down the paddock in his ute, dogs in tow. 

It was here, at the shed, that we met two more new friends, grey nomads, who were returning to their home on the outskirts of Adelaide. We ended up crossing the Murray, by ferry at Wellington and having lunch with them in Strathalbyn. 

Just as we were coming in to Langhorne Creek, through the wineries, we spotted a gorgeous little free camping spot, Franks Potts Reserve. It was only a 100m walk to a cellar door and 200m to a little brewery too.

Strathalbyn had a great store, the Old Market Shed which has been there for years but which sells a great range of local produce- cheeses, milks, preserves & pickles, olive oils, fruit & veg and other nuts, seeds and flours in bulk. You can grab coffee grounds and beans and fresh coffee too. I resisted stopping for lunch or some of the amazing-looking homemade carrot cake though. 

tasmania: bay of fires

We created some great memories at the Bay of Fires. Many times since we arrived in Tassie people recommended free camping at Cosy Corner. We arrived after lunch and we're really lucky to find a site. If you intend to stay at either Cosy Corner North or South it would be best to arrive at about 11 - giving people enough time to pack up & vacate their site. It's a popular spot but you can still find yourself a nice private site. 

We chose to stay at Cosy Corner North so we had toilet facilities close by. It's good to give the van a work-out and find out the limitations.

We can comfortably free camp for three nights as long as we have enough sunshine to power the batteries (though in some places we can crank up the gennie). It's pretty good that, as a family of five, the solar panels, water tanks & toilet in the van give us that independence. I must say we were grateful for the shower yesterday (after 4 days) though! 

We've only had a few instances when we could have been more prepared for meals. If you're planning a stay at Bay of Fires you don't have to worry too much. St Helens is only a quarter of an hour from the campsites. There's a large IGA but the smaller Hilly's IGA is a fabulous supplier of local cheese (Payengana) & the best bacon I've ever eaten - Bok's - from Glenorchy in Tassie. 

And if you need your coffee fix Marika at Coffee Away - a hole-in-the-wall - can make you caffeine in whatever form you desire! You can grab a takeaway or just sit on the benches in the sun out front and watch the holiday makers wander by. 

We'd been told about Lease 65 Oysters but I took a wrong turn and found myself at Clean Water Oysters (200 Binalong rd) where i grabbed three dozen unshucked for $24! We ate some natural (with lemon) and turned some in to Kilpatrick with the Bok's bacon and homemade Worschestire sauce from the providore in St Helens. Oh man. They were good. The kids guzzled them down too.

B had his eye on the sweet tiny wrens at the campsite. He was desperate to cuddle one so he spent about 3.5 hours one day designing and re-jigging a trap. He used various lengths of string, sticks, bread crumbs and cheese crumbs when he heard they love those best. Unfortunately B didn't have any luck. 

Unlike J in his kayak! Early one morning he managed to catch a mackerel (not the nicest but we do have a good recipe) and a squid.  

tasmania: strahan to bradys lake via franklin river nature trail

The road from Queenstown, however diverse, is almost unbearably windy. The landscape has been heavily affected by mining and I heard one traveller describe it as beautiful. While we disagree entirely it is interesting to see the difference with the rainforests of the area.

A good supply of snacks (crackers, Tassie apples) and the iPods chockful of audiobooks has made car travel pretty good. We leave for the first leg when Baby A has his morning sleep (9:30) and sometimes stop before a campsite (depending on how far we've got to go) but by leaving early in the morning we can still travel for an hour or two after lunch if need be. 

After the windy, windy roads from Queenstown we were all pleased to escape from the car at the Franklin River Nature Trail. J & I stopped here when we drove around Tassie about ten years ago. The trail is a short walk through rainforest to the river and it's beautiful - a perfect lunch stop too!

The kids stripped off for a dip in the river. Baby A had his feet in the water - kicking & splashing - and he cried each time we took him out. 

It's not hard to understand the affection people have for this state & the environment. 

Our final stop before Bradys Lake was The Wall - just out of Derwent. Ten years ago, when we visited, The Wall was just two panels but there are almost one hundred metres of Tasmanian and Australian history carved in the Huon Pine. This is a must-see.